Miscellaneous

How do I open a Compact Mac?

All the Compacts have Torx screws in them unless the original screws have been replaced with something else. To get at these, you need a Torx T-15 screwdriver with at least a 6-inch (15cm) shaft.

Don’t forget, if you’re taking apart a Plus or earlier, to remove the fifth screw INSIDE the battery cover!

Where can I get instructions for repairing my Mac?

Apple provides their Authorised Service Providers with Service Manuals for the various models of Macintoshes and other Apple products. Unfortunately, most do-it-yourselfers (yours truly included) do not work for an AASP or otherwise have access to these manuals through Apple. Thanks to the ever-vigilant Gamba, you can now download most of the service manuals directly from Apple’s servers. (Note: IE displays the page very slowly due to a table rendering problem in IE. iCab and Netscape work just fine.)

Larry Pina wrote a series of books on repairing early Macs back in the late 1980s and early 1990s. They are, regrettably, ALL out of print now, but used book stores may still occasionally have one or two in stock. I highly recommend getting at least The Dead Mac Scrolls, which covers everything from the 128 to the SE and a few non-computer Apple hardware pieces as well. Macintosh Repair and Upgrade Secrets is at least as good as The Dead Mac Scrolls, if not better, for hardware-level repair information and tips. Half.com sometimes has a Pina book or two available and has been the best source of Pina books for the past year or so. eBay is also a possible source for the occasional Pina book.

Colour Classic/Colour Classic II in the back but nothing happened.

The Colour Classic, Colour Classic II, and 5xx(x) series Macs (including the Macintosh TV) all have two power buttons. Once you turn them on in the back, you need to press the power key on the keyboard to start them up. Using one or the other by itself will NOT start up the Mac.

My Mac II/IIx/IIfx used to work fine but now it won’t boot.

You probably have one or more dead batteries. The full-size Mac II series machines used two PRAM-style batteries - one for the PRAM and the second, in series with the first, to kick-start the power supply. One or both may be dead, which will prevent the Mac from booting.

What’s the slot in the back of my Mac with the chain icon?

That’s for a security device. Several third-party manufacturers made a small metal slab with a ring on it that snapped into the slot and was impossible to remove without opening the case up. The ring was for running a security cable through in order to lock the Mac to a desk, table, or other secure surface. If you have the security rings in several Macs and want to remove them, simply push the device firmly into the interior of the case (this may require the case to be opened in some instances) and it will pop out.

How can I solder or repair components on my Mac’s board?

The solder you use should be made specifically for electrical component repair, with a low melting temperature. Again, this avoids damage to the board and makes repairs easier. Avoid acid-core solders as the acid can cause damage as well. Most solder you’ll want to use won’t need to be any thicker than a pencil lead. For very small and delicate work, you’ll want even finer solder, the thickness of a fine wire.

There’s some kind of gunk on my Mac. How can I get it off?

There are lots of different types of “gunk” that can get on Macs. Probably the most common form of gunk is dirt or grease, which can be washed off with detergent and water. If you’re really ambitious, take the Mac apart and just toss the case in the dishwasher. Let it dry thoroughly and reassemble.

If the gunk won’t come off after a good hand washing or machine washing, it’s time to break out the big guns. Rubbing alcohol and/or lighter fluid work wonders on soap-insoluble gunk. Goo Gone works pretty well when used sparingly and lightly without hard rubbing. Park Tools’ Chain Brite, available at most bike shops, works incredibly well to remove just about any soiling from Mac cases; mix three parts Chain Brite with one part water and start scrubbing.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use any solvents containing acetone, such as nail polish remover. It will dissolve the case of your Mac and remove the texture from the finish. Xylene and toluene, both key ingredients of Goof-Off, a common household cleaner, will also dissolve the case. I repeat, DO NOT use solvents when cleaning a Mac (or most anything plastic).

Special note for Macintosh TV owners: there has been at least one reported incident of rubbing alcohol dissolving the black colour on a Mac TV case. A product called “Back to Black” successfully restored the original colour, but at this time it is recommended that Mac TV owners use nothing more than a mild detergent and soft rag for cleaning the case of dirt and marks.

How can I determine my pre-Plus Mac’s type via its model number?

The Macintosh 128 has a model number of M0001. This model number should be present on both the case back and under the screen near the brightness knob on the front of the case. The model without “128K” is somewhat rarer.

The Macintosh 512 has a model number of M0001W. This model number should be present on both the case back and under the screen near the brightness knob on the front of the case.

The Macintosh 512Ke has a model number of M0001E. This model number should be present on both the case back and under the screen near the brightness knob on the front of the case.

The Macintosh ED sold in Europe (a rebadged 512Ke) has a model number of M0001D. It says “Macintosh ED” on the front and has a 512 label on the back. The model number should be present on both the case back and under the screen near the brightness knob on the front of the case.

The Macintosh Plus has a model number of M0001A and is often found as an upgrade for the three previous machines. The upgrade replaced the logic board and case back. Factory-original Macintosh Pluses say “Macintosh Plus” on the front.

How can I determine when or where my Mac was made?

Macintosh serial numbers have a built-in date coding that can tell you the week and year in which your Mac was made, as well as the factory in most cases.

The first digit in the serial number is the last digit of the year of manufacture. To determine this with certainty will require a bit of common sense (i.e., a Power Mac whose serial number starts with 6 probably wasn’t made in 1986).

The next two digits are the week of the year, which ought to be reasonably self-explanatory.

The serial number begins with a letter or two in most cases, and this is a factory code. Below is a list of all the factory codes I’m currently aware of; if you can add to or correct this list, e-mail me.

• F: Fremont, CA, USA
• CK: Cork, Ireland
• SG, E: Singapore
• XA, XB: Sacramento, CA, USA
• FC: Fountain, CO, USA (PowerBooks only)
• PK, SI: Mexico
• LT: Taiwan
• G: USA

If you have a Mac Plus or earlier, I’ve written a Perl-based decoder that takes the serial number and gives you a whole load of nifty information about the Mac.